Keep it movin'

I got what felt like a lot of work done on the boat the past couple of weeks. It does not look dramatically different, but all the work was necessary.

On the left is just a picture of what I used to mix the epoxy and thickener when doing my fillets and fiberglass work. I was able to do all the joints on the boat (I will have more to do later when I add more pieces to the boat) in about 2 hours.

I used epoxy with slow hardener and fiberglass tape I ordered from B&B Yacht Designs - the folks that designed the boat. In the picture you'll see a paint mixer, a plastic Folgers container and a plastic measuring cup. I measured out the epoxy and then mixed it using the paint mixer installed in my cordless drill. The way I would have done it before would be to stir it by hand using a mixing stick of some sort. This can get tedious. So after the epoxy was mixed in the measuring cup, I poured it into the Folgers container and added the cab-o-sil and mixed it again with the cordless drill. Then, I made all my fillets.

After I had the fillets done, I took the glass tape, which I had already cut to fit at every joint, and wet it out in my "glass wet out box." This is just a piece of plywood with scrap wood around the perimeter to form a lip. I put a sheet of plastic in it so I'll have a clean surface. Then I lay the glass tape down, mix the epoxy, pour it on the tape and squeegee it around until the tape is saturated, and then apply the tape over the fillet.


Here you can see the joints. I then installed the side stringers. The starboard stinger I applied the glue and then shot sheet rock screws through it to clamp it. The wood split in several places from the screws, but only minor ones.

So, when I did the port side stringer, I drilled holes in it for the screws first and this prevented any splitting.

I scarfed the gunnels and have them dry fitted in this photo. I plan to glue them up today.

This is a photo of the rudder blade. It is made of two layers of 3/8 plywood. The plans provide a grid to transfer to the workpiece to help with cutting the shape. I cut the top a little too flat, but I don't believe this will affect much as it will not be in the water. I still have to shape the blade to the correct taper.








Here you can see the joint of the inwales with the stem. On the port side I took my time and shaved a little bit here a little there, until I got it just right. I got hasty on the starboard side and cut it too short. I'll have to fill the gap with thickened epoxy.